Belief Bulgari to kick off excessive jewelry season in probably the most epic method. Held in Venice on the extraordinary Palazzo Ducale, the two-night extravaganza noticed the great and glamorous flock to the Floating Metropolis to have fun the home’s new Mediterranea excessive jewelry assortment. And for over 40 years, one exceptional girl has been accountable for realising the Roman jeweller’s fantastical creations: Lucia Silvestri, Bulgari’s Jewelry Artistic Director. Recent off the home’s magnificent exhibiting, we sit down with Silvestri to debate the Mediterranea excessive jewelry assortment, her favorite items from the gathering and her upcoming adventures.
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The theme of this yr’s excessive jewelry assortment is Mediterranea. I needed to ask you you probably have a particular reminiscence you like that’s linked to the Mediterranean.
I’ve so many recollections concerning the Mediterranean, from Rome to Sicily to Greece, to Africa. It’s a journey, and I beloved this theme from the start, as a result of it’s a journey. And all of the locations that impressed me, I’ve been there many occasions, ranging from Rome and Naples, Palermo, Greece, so it’s very inspiring.
How would you describe the spirit of this excessive jewelry assortment?
It’s a mixture of cultures. We have now lots of international locations across the Mediterranean, and it’s actually a mixture of cultures. So as an example, and that is an instance of among the finest mixtures [NB: see photo below] — once I began to consider this necklace, I began with mandarin garnets that jogged my memory of the deserts of Morocco, and the flavour and spices of Morocco. I assumed that it may very well be the best mixture — this very sparkly, heat [stone], filled with solar and fiery color — with one thing extra delicate, and on this case, we use citrines.
It’s the primary time that we used mandarin garnets and citrines collectively in excessive jewelry — it’s a brand new mixture. Yearly, now we have a brand new mixture, and this yr, that is certainly one of these new mixtures. The thought could be very a lot Morocco: its desert, dunes and spices. And right here, there’s Venice, with the home windows — the motif is from Venice — so that is actually a mixture between two cultures. I like the concept of this mix and the craftsmanship. It’s actually wonderful. It’s a bit of artwork.
It’s fantastic. You may have a look at it from the entrance and the again.
I like it, that is my favorite necklace. I began from the gems: I purchased the gems one after the other, after which we lower them in an ideal method, in a Bulgari method. Now, it’s our masterpiece.
My subsequent query additionally pertains to gem stones, since you’ve at all times mentioned that gem stones are at all times the centre of your concepts. What had been a few of your favorite gem stones to work inside this assortment?
This assortment? It’s very tough… I really like this one [NB: see photo below] as a result of it has greater than 200 carats of emeralds and I really like this one specifically as a result of I adopted the chopping of the gem. At the start, once I noticed the gem, it was not polished, not lower, and I mentioned with the proprietor of the gem as a result of I noticed a sugarloaf and he was fascinated about a faceted stone. So I attempted to persuade them that for Bulgari, one of the simplest ways to make use of the gem was making it a sugarloaf, and in the long run, I satisfied him that this was one of the simplest ways, with these very clean corners. It’s not sharp, it is rather female, very mild, and so we might take into consideration a really mild, elegant necklace. And it’s versatile, so you’ll be able to put on it with out the emerald or the pearls, or collectively.
Extremely transformable as properly. What’s your favorite piece in the entire assortment?
It’s tough, however I really like this one [NB: See below].
Due to all of the mixtures of the mandarin garnets and the whole lot?
Sure, as a result of the inspiration was so distinctive.
And what was probably the most difficult piece to make on this assortment?
Every bit could be very difficult [laughs]. We prefer to have a problem from the craftsmanship, from the inventive viewpoint. The Serpenti could be very difficult, as a result of the craftsmanship evolves yearly, and yearly it will get higher. So, the whole lot is a problem.
I’m positive you’ve travelled to Venice many occasions. What are a few of your favorite locations to go to in Venice?
The Palazzo Ducale can be a shock for me. I’ve seen the Palazzo Ducale many occasions, however yesterday and the day earlier than yesterday, that room [NB: the Sala dello Scrutinio] was wonderful, so inspiring. That was my first time, so I used to be wanting on the ceiling and I dreamed about new necklaces, new rings and new earrings and a complete assortment in a single night time.
So we’d see a set impressed by Venice sooner or later?
My inspiration comes from travelling. Venice is one place [that inspires me], and, in fact, Rome. I can’t neglect that Rome is at all times our first supply of inspiration.
I’m at all times very struck by your very tactile method in terms of designing. After I was watching Contained in the Dream final yr, I noticed that you just picked up the gems, you performed round with it, combined and matched them. I’m very to know, why do you continue to do what you do? Why are you continue to impressed to maintain designing?
As a result of I really like what I do. It’s probably not a job, it’s a ardour — and I really feel you could really feel the eagerness behind our jewelry. We proceed to do it with an amazing ardour, not solely due to me, however as a result of our group — and all of the groups round me — are passionate. From artisans, to designers, to the patrons, we do it with pleasure. We benefit from the power of the gems, and we can’t neglect that we’re working with a present from nature. This present makes me glad, so I’m glad to work each time. I don’t work, I play.
And for my final query: you journey a lot. So the place are you off to subsequent? What can be your subsequent journey?
My subsequent journey is just not actually an journey, however I’m visiting Japan due to the excessive jewelry presentation there. I really like Japan.
This text first appeared on Grazia Singapore.
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