Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5811: All That Glitters

One of many nice horological mysteries of latest years has been answered: Patek Philippe launched the Nautilus Ref. 5811/1G-001, successfully changing Ref. 5711. Wanting on the watch because it seems right here, you could possibly be forgiven for doing a double-take and questioning if we used the previous image. Properly, we didn’t, and Ref. 5811 is sort of a special beast to the Ref. 5711, though just about everybody anticipated the successor to look fairly comparable. One doesn’t merely reinvent the wheel, in spite of everything, and there may be a lot to debate right here. After some reflection — we noticed this watch in individual final week, together with a lot of the specialised watch press — Ref. 5811 is worthy of great protection. You, pricey reader, deserve the possibility to grasp what is going on right here and make up your personal thoughts about it. To that finish, we are going to concentrate on the information and depart our opinions out of it — for probably the most half.

Patek Philippe, to its credit score, needs to take the story of the Nautilus again to first ideas. Because of this the 2022 reincarnation of Ref. 3700 (1976) takes its cues from the unique. Most importantly, meaning Ref. 5811 contains a two-part case, fairly than the three-part case of Ref. 5711. Given that there’s nonetheless an exhibition caseback, some purists could wag their fingers and shake their heads, however we like seeing the automated calibre 26-330 S C again in motion right here (for the document it was additionally the engine of Ref. 5711). Patek Philippe reminds us that this case-construction means the motion have to be faraway from the case dial-side, for servicing, and which means the crown should even be eliminated likewise. By way of user-interaction, you’ll not discover something.

The automated calibre 26-330 S C

Maybe simply as vital, and one thing you’ll undoubtedly really feel, the selection of steel here’s a little bit of a revolt in opposition to custom — so white gold is in, simply because it was with Ref. 3711 (2004), and metal is out. The watch is sort of hefty, as you possibly can think about, and it’s 1mm wider than Ref. 5711, at 41mm. The peak stays 8.2mm and water-resistance is 120m. There are some minor adjustments by way of the design however these are very refined certainly, and would require you to view the previous reference side-by-side with the brand new one. 

The bracelet right here requires a little bit of an explainer, particularly almost about the fold-over clasp, which is new and affords tremendous adjustment. That is undoubtedly an enchancment, which all watches with built-in bracelets ought to have; this implies Ref. 5811 will be prolonged by 2-4mm, which is one thing no earlier Nautilus mannequin might do. There may be extra to say in regards to the technical particulars on this clasp, however for now, we should observe for the document that the bracelet is comparatively unchanged from earlier variations, which implies you continue to get pins fairly than screws.

On the dial, the date window is enhanced by the identical body (white gold) that was launched with Ref. 5711/1A-014 (the inexperienced dial mannequin that was solely in manufacturing for a yr), though we expect the font is totally different. The gradient sunburst blue dial of Ref. 5811 is just a little totally different to the earlier blue, with this one being just a little deeper and darker.

We are going to finish with an extra observe in regards to the valuable steel narrative. Keep in mind right here that white gold has by no means been a part of the Ref. 5711 story because it started in 2006 (at the very least not with a bracelet). Right here, we are going to insert a little bit of our personal rhetoric — so far as the Nautilus goes, that is now all about valuable metals.

By Patek Philippe’s personal metrics, simply 30 per cent of the Genevan manufacture’s output is in metal, and it doesn’t intend on altering that. So if Patek Philippe needs to provide extra Nautilus watches, it might achieve this solely in valuable metals. If, like us, you have been questioning a few titanium Nautilus, it could but occur, and metal could but return — such fashions might be uncommon although, and possibly won’t be priced as they as soon as have been (the metal Nautilus, at the very least — titanium Patek Philippe watches are such rarities that the manufacture can worth these nonetheless it sees match).

On that observe, the brand new Ref. 5811 is S$92,000, making this mannequin fairly a bit extra dear than the extra difficult Ref. 5712/1A, which stays within the assortment. We will definitely have extra to say in regards to the Nautilus as there are various references that we have now not gotten to but. For our subsequent Patek Philippe reference although, we might be that eye-catching left-hander…

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Rahul Diyashi
News and travel at your doorstep.

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